CYCLES

Beautiful day to tour skulptur projekte münster 07

What a perfect ending for Art Ride 2007. As the curators note, Münster has become an “open-air museum for contemporary sculpture in public space”. A “museum” that encourages the viewers to tour the exhibition … by bicycle!
Ran into Natalie Kovacs (curator-artist-consultant and Art Ride paparazzi) who accompanied me on the tour and helped record the experience. Over coffee we reviewed the locations of the various artworks and mapped-out a bike tour. It was quite a scavenger hunt within the old city centre especially since we were vying for space on small cobblestone roads and walkways with tourists and city dwellers. We did end up catching a glimpse of public installations by Andreas Siekmann, Deimantas Narkevicius, Gustav Metzger, Marko Lehaka, Silke Wagner, Isa Genzken, Hans-Peter Feldman, Nairy Baghramian and Michael Asher.
We got to hang-out with the some real animals in Mike Kelley’s Petting Zoo. Further along our route we hop on bikes of another kind … stationary bikes … that power the video screens on which we see Guy Ben-Ner’s film “I’d give it to you if I could, but I borrowed it”. You can make it as short or as long as you’d like depending on how fast you pedal. We meander Lake Aa where we see Rosemarie Trockel’s sculpture made of Yew bushes. We listen to Susan Philipsz’s sound sculpture. Then back along the bike route around the lake to view a few remnants of Skulptur Projektes past … permanently installed sculptures by Jorge Pardo and Ilya Kabakov (both from 1997) and Donald Judd and Claes Oldenburg from 1977.
We cycled through Dominique Gonzalez-Foerster’s sculputre garden Roman de Münster. A theme park of 1:4 scale replicas of sculptures she selected from previous installments of the Skulpur Projekte. And on our way back to the city centre, we stop to see Dan Graham’s Oktogon für Münster (from 1987). It’s a beautifully subtle work installed in the Schlossgarten.
Just when we thought our tour was over, having returned the bike Natalie had rented, we stumble on Thomas Schutte’s Modell fùr ein Museum (Model for a Mueum) which essentially consists of a glass structure placed over a fountain erected by the Chamber of Commerce in the exact spot of his 1987 sculptural contribution, Kierschensäule. Interesting how the artist was able to reclaim his previous space, incorporating the fountain into a new work that is essentially a concept maquette for a museum structure that may never be realized. A striking critique on the fragility of this ‘open-air museum’, or the relationship of public art and its host communities.
There were some strong works, and some that are not so successful, yet there was a sensitivity and consideration by all the participating artists to the chosen locales creating an overall experience that was engaging, enjoyable, fun even, that it was well worth the (Art Ride) tour.

A selection of her photos are included below. Thank you Nat!

Stage 11: Kassel to Münster

Last long day in saddle! Kassel to Münster - 200km
Beautiful warm sunny day … no rain! Petra and I enjoy a quiet ride through mostly farmlands and small towns on fairly flat terrain.

Make a pit stop for water and a washroom in Beckum where Petra forgets her helmet. We were so focused on dealing with the traffic in Beckum (we were passing through during rush hour) we didn't notice until we were out of the thick of it. We stop, Petra unloads her panniers and leaves me at the outskirts of town to go back and fetch it. Fortunately it was right where she left it.

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Rest day in Kassel : tour documenta 12

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Touring the various exhibition spaces and presentation venues that comprise documenta 12, I can’t help but feel perplexed and confused. Was it the exhibition structure or was it just me? After so many days of cycling, then spending time video editing, searching for internet access, uploading video sequences to the blog site, and reviewing comments and correspondences, maybe I was just too exhausted mentally to digest what I had just witnessed.
I made the decision to buy the documenta catalogue … not such a big deal unless you still have another 195km to ride from Kassel to Münster and very little panier space to spare … in order to read the curatorial essay and discover firsthand, so to speak, what exactly went into their decisions.

Unfortunately, this year’s documenta catalogue is without any curatorial essay. Only text included by the curator Ruth Novack is a short Preface co-signed with Director, and husband, Roger M. Buergel. They do refer in this preface, that this year’s installment is “an exhibition without form” … period. Not sure how that’s possible for an obviously, tightly curated exhibition. As for any reference to the artwork chosen they proclaim that “art is not without context; each work is attached to a local history.” How then, can they further state that an artwork can, “communicate itself and on its own terms” when it is butted up against and overlapping other works included in the exhibition. The works that seemed to stand out most for me were those I now realize had their own room in which to breathe and thus, allow the viewer to experience independently. Worst case scenario was in the Aue Pavilion. This awkward open-concept, temporary exhibition space didn’t provide much opportunity for contemplation … I kind of feel sorry for the artists whose work was placed there. And there were some beautiful works but they were certainly compromised by the claustrophobic structure of the installation.

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Stage 10: Alsfeld to Kassel

Nice day for a solo 80km ride. AM is off to Berlin.

Petra has resurfaced!
After her three day disappearance I find Petra enjoying a beer at the terrace café of the Museum Fridericianum. She invites me to join her and proceeds to inform me of how she decided to forego our designated meeting place in Baden Baden and continue on her own to Kassel, and why she never thought it necessary to update AM nor I on her last-minute change of plans.

Stage 9: Heidelberg to Alsfeld

Bad, bad day. Run into heavy downpour 2 hours outside of Heidelberg, stop briefly under a bus shelter. move on in the rain through beautiful rolling hills until another heavy downpour hits us along with lightning. Cold, wet and distraught it is time to find a train station. Along the way I loose my glasses, which makes incredibly difficult to keep my eyes open with the pounding rain. We stop in Michelstadt to inquire about train routes/schedules. And, at which point I end up loosing my helmet under a train! We decide to continue our journey by train until I can find a bike store and get a new helmut. We end up covering somewhere in the vicinity of 260km unfortunately not all by bike.
Still no sign of Petra, send yet another email and try to contact a few mutual friends to see if anyone has heard from her ... nothing hope she has found a warm and dry place to hang out.

Oh, now proud owner of a German-made helmet.

Stage 8: Baden Baden to Heidelberg

More route navigation challenges, we take the advice of our B&B host and take quiet regional roads that will lead us to the French side of the Rhein. It starts to rain so we decide to take cover in a bus shelter in Seltz. Seems to be a popular one as we are joined by a couple of young girls who stop in to have a cigarette. After snacking on a sandwich we decide to continue regardless of the weather. We eventually cross back into Germany and onto the other side of the Rhein and, back to dealing with the many restrictions on cyclists. Yet again we arrive late this time around 10:30pm into Heidelberg . Happy to finally remove soaking wet clothing! got in 145km and most of it in soaking wet clothing feeling very soggy.
AM has a friend living there who generously offered to take us in. What an amazing welcome, she had prepared a pasta dinner and had beer and wine and cheese laid out for us … what a treat!
Still no sign of Petra, send her an email using our host’s connection. Hopefully she is checking ...

Stage 7: Basel to Baden Baden

As we leave the hostel to start our next stage Petra decides she would rather take the train. Given it is a beautiful day, and I am interested in recording (via time lapsed photography) the transitions between urban and rural contexts I am dead set on cycling, AM is up for it. So we part ways agreeing to meet at the hotel in BADEN BADEN.
Upon entering Germany our proposed route is put in jeopardy. The rules in Germany are very strict as to where cyclists can venture and if there is a bike route cyclists are banned from the small highways between towns. Within a half hour of cycling in Germany we are kicked off the route and forced to take bike paths that end up meandering between farmland and industrial lands. We feel like we are going in circles as there is little to no signage. Time to stop and devise a new route focusing on small “yellow” roads, on Michelin maps.
In to the Black Forest we go, beautiful hilly landscape. The roads are quiet as they weave up and down with tight turns. Great for cycling. End up on a 400 metre pass, Beiderbach. A well known training area for local cyclists. We arrive in Baden Baden late but feeling good with our accomplishment, ended up cycling a total of 185km.

Petra is no where to be seen. We wait until noon the next morning before heading to Heidelberg. Slightly worried but hoping to see her at the next destination.

Stage 6: Winterthur to Art 38 Basel

After a late night dealing with digitizing video footage and preparing my blogs, didn't get much sleep before our 6 am start time for stage 6 to Basel. Looking forward to attending the Basel Art Fair and after 123km feeling re-energized and ready for art. Unfortunately get in later than expected and only see a portion of it.

Did however get a chance to see an intriguing exhibition at the Scjhweizerisches ArchitekturMuseum, Instant Urbanism: Tracing the theories of the Situationists in Contemporary Architecture and Urbanism. Definitely a must see.
Tour of Art 38 Basel

for more info on ART BASEL Artsy

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Stage 5: Chur to Winterthur

After staying at a not so great hotel in Chur we start out on a foggy day for Winterthur. The sun comes out by noon and we decide to picnic along lake Walensee, beautiful view near Tiefenwinkel. By day's end we have accomplished 154km. AM is still with us. we have dinner in a restaurant in Wildberg that prominently features an entrée with Canadian horse meat on its menu! We decided to go with a local traditional dish instead.

Stage 4: Chiavenna to Chur

An acquaintance of Petra’s joins us in Chiavenna, intent to cycle with us all the way to Kassel. As we say good-bye to our hosts at La Specola they offer us a gift, a locally crafted handmade wooden bowl. As it turns out we are the first Canadians to stay at their B&B. How incredibly thoughtful!

The three of us start out that morning with beautiful weather. This is the day we cycle up to the Passo dello Spluga a 2,113 metre high mountain pass. Near the top we stop in Montespluga at an inn and have a warm bowl of bean soup. Yummy and satisfying having spent that last half hour in rain and fog. Warmed up we head back out in the fog toward the peak of the pass and where we cross into Switzerland.

The weather eventually cleared and we had a beautiful ride in Switzerland into Chur. Accomplished 110km.

Stage 3: Palazzolo’Oglio to Chiavenna

It’s a beautiful warm and sunny Sunday. We run into several cycling teams on training rides along Lake Como – they most likely originating out of Milan. The lake is such a special sight – certainly beats Holland Marsh near Toronto as cycling backdrop. We stop at an ice cream stand in Cremia and take in the view. Run into a rain storm going north of the lake, along with a bunch of Swiss day tourist leaving the beaches. Traffic became heavy and a bit chaotic but it clears up – along with the rain – in about half an hour. We veer off the main route to Switzerland and on to an old quiet highway toward Chiavenna. Ended up cycling 163km (projected 141 km)
en route through Samolaco
Once in Chiavenna we locate our B&B La Specola, very comfortable accommodations situated in the heart of this picturesque town. We were warmly greeted by our hosts Signora Rina and her son with tea and cookies. We spent some time talking of our travels and her son was very helpful in providing advice on the route we were to take the following day. We highly recommend staying at La Specola if you ever visit.

View of city & view from bedroom window

Stage 2: Mantova to Palazzolo Sul’Oglio

Started out late today, 11am. Stayed to use the internet cafe that was supposed to open at 10am. at 10:30 still no sign of life and I had a ride to do. Couldn’t wait any longer, off to Palazzolo Sul’Oglio. It was sunny and quickly became very hot. We stop for a break in Gambara, fresh fruit and ice cold water ... refreshing. Took it easy along the route north west toward Palazzolo Sul’Oglio. Cycling through the heat was well worth the journey. Palazzolo Sul’Oglio is a beautiful small town nestled by hills. Cycled 138km.

Got in to town around 8pm found a lovely hotel, Villa & Roma. We had an amazing dinner. finally a town with a restaurant still serving dinner after 9pm! we were getting sick of ham and cheese sandwiches, the only thing available once the kitchen closes, usually at 9pm sharp.

Stage 1: Venice-Mantova

La Biennale di Venezia 52nd International Art Exhibition - Venice

It was a gorgeous day to leave Venice. Couldn’t locate the boat to Fusina – a campground and parking lot south of Mestre. Decided instead to ride the causeway and navigate through Mestre. Don’t try it! There is a sidewalk on the causeway, and after a bit of expressway like road you can locate a bike path north of Mestre, but getting all the way across the city is very difficult because of the main expressway bisecting the city E-W. The city is trying though, as the system of separated bike paths was the best I’ve seen anywhere so far. The espressway seems to be the insurmountable barrier. Eventually made it out to decent 2-lane road going south. We stopped for coffee in Campagna Lupia, in the lovely CafÈ Pieta. Great pastries and the owner gave us chocolate for the road. The rest of the ride went beautifully: Dolomites in the distance, flat as a pancake fertile plain all around. Several large religious cloisters in some of the villages. We modified the route along the way to avoid traffic and moved to small country roads through most of the day, adding about 10km to the day. Mestre was responsible for the rest of the increase. Distance: 195km (164 projected)
Arrived in Mantova feeling good after a fairly long first day (12 hours). Then the real fun started! The B&B Scam Here’s how it works: innocent tourist decides that to be on the safe side on a Friday, to book accommodation online. Visits hostel and B&B site for Italy cities… ah there’s a nice sounding B&B in Mantova. Books room with twin beds. Great. Then you try to find it… and it turns out to be non-locatable… cyclists ride around in the darkening city. Lights go on the bikes… Calls to the supposed B&B prove to give only vaguer and less likely directions.

Then the travelers stumble on a strange, near-empty Albergo on the city limits… staff there seem to know something about the purported B&B, but their directions are even less likely… there is no ‘white house with lights on’. No sign, no lights, just darkened buildings, all empty or residential. The other Albergo offers a room at competing rates. Final calls to the supposed B&B prove that it doesn’t exist. In the end, we simply rode into downtown and found a beautiful, roomy hotel. It was so simple, and a buffet breakfast included at the 3-star Hotel Italia, Mantova. Excellent room rates. (hotelitaliamantova.com, 0376 322609)

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Prologue: Quick tour of 52nd Biennale di Venezia

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We arrange to meet a group of colleagues outside the Giardini to retrieve our preview passes. We get them from the flag-draped ‘Canadian’ table located just outside the Biennale entrance gates.
Once in we rush to as many pavilions as possible before we make our way to the official opening of the Canadian pavilion. First France, where Sophie Calle has installed (with the direction of Daniel Burin) a mesmerizing array of responses to one email. The text of which can be found in vinyl lettering on the wall opposite to the entrance. It’s overwhelming the amount of material – text, video, film, and photo – an ambitious and obsessive installation.

Then the British pavilion, an eccentric presentation for which Tracy Emin has created a series of uncharacteristically subtle drawings … we’re still not sure about the tree branches in the centre of the main space though. At the Nordic pavilion we find an installation that takes the form of a travel agency promoting Baghdad as a tourist destination. Conceived of by artist Adel Abidin, it’s a tragically ironic, often tongue-in-cheek reminder of the Iraqi situation. Russia has a group exhibition entitled CLICKIHOPE, in Spain we view the group exhibition Broken Paradise, Venezuela, Switzerland, Germany are interesting … then we run into some acquaintances. Conversation is quick … what we’ve seen, what’s a write-off and which pavilions are not to be missed. We tear over to America … but with an hour and a half queue, we don’t actually see the much-talked-about Felix Gonzalez-Torres installation. No time to waste, we move on … the Italian pavilion is next … one of the Biennale’s two main international presentations curated by Director Robert Storr. The other component – housed in the Arsenale – occupies vast exhibition halls and includes the African and Chinese pavilions.
We finally arrive at the Canadian pavilion for the official opening reception of David Altmejd’s exhibition INDEX. Sipping chilled Prosecco and nibbling some quite good cheese, we navigate a crowd comprising members of the Canadian and international art world and dotted with colleagues and friends. After a drink (or two) we end-up in the exhibition space – it’s a confounding installation of mirrors with spatterings of white paint, crystals, S&M gear, dildos, faux fur, tree branches, fake birds, men morphing into animals and one big, seated werewolf – quite phantasmagorical and ‘site-specific’. The Canadian contribution felt out of place given the breadth of oeuvres in other pavilions rooted in contemporary issues … often exploring situations of conflict and war. Robert Storr certainly embraced the conflict theme in his curatorial direction and Lebanon’s inaugural participation spoke volumes.